Oldman Dam Provincial Recreation Area

Trip Date: July 2018

Our third camping trip of the summer took us down to the Oldman Dam Provincial Recreation Area near the Crowsnest Pass area of southern Alberta. The park is only 15 minutes from the town of Pincher Creek. We reserved three sites in the Cottonwood Campground, just one of four campgrounds located within the park. Cottonwood is tucked away in a valley below the Oldman River Reservoir, but still along the banks of the Oldman River. There are numerous Cottonwood Trees that provide shade and some relief from the constant wind that plagues this part of the province.

Welcome to Oldman Dam Provincial Recreation Area

None of us had ever camped here before, so we were looking forward to seeing a new park and a new part of the province. Sometimes it's easy to get stuck going back to familiar places, so trying new things once in awhile can be fun.

Oldman River Brewing in Lundbreck

Christine and I left Friday morning and headed south. We stopped in Lundbreck for lunch at Oldman River Brewing. This small micro-brewery was absolutely perfect. They had a kid and dog friendly patio, good food, delicious beers, and their customer service was above and beyond. They took small-town hospitality to a whole new level. In fact we liked them so much that we stopped there again on Saturday afternoon with all of our friends because we couldn't quit raving about them. So if you're ever down in southern Alberta make sure you stop in and enjoy a flight; you won't be disappointed!

A flight of five beers

Their patio accommodates the entire family!

We pulled into the campground mid-afternoon and set-up our campsite. We were the first ones to arrive, but the rest of the crew slowly trickled in as the day wore on. Waiting on everyone else gave us some time to explore the campground and take Rome for a walk.

Cottonwood Campground

Our home for the weekend

There aren't too many campgrounds where you look up and see wind turbines sticking up above the hills

The banks of the Oldman River

Looking northeast from the campground

A gorgeous prairie sunset

Saturday was a day for adventure. Ryan and I scrambled up the hillside next to the campground just to see what the view was like. Needless to say we weren't disappointed. 

Panoramic view from the top of the hill overlooking Cottonwood Campground

When we returned to the campground we were treated to a rare wildlife encounter. A Long-Tailed Weasel had been chasing a ground squirrel and when its prey eluded him, he climbed a nearby tree and perched on a low-hanging branch. This weasel sat on the branch for a long time without moving much and seemingly without a care in the world. We snapped several photos of the elusive critter before leaving him to his own devices.

Long-Tailed Weasel

Just lounging in a tree

Shortly after seeing the weasel this Mule Deer trotted through the campground

After our brief hike and wildlife viewing we headed out to Lundbreck Falls Provincial Recreation Area as none of us had ever seen the waterfalls in person. It was less than a 25 minute drive from our campground to the Lundbreck Falls Campground, which is where we parked. Hindsight being 20/20 we should have drove past the campground and parked at Lundbreck Falls Day Use Area as there was more parking available, but we thoroughly enjoyed the short walk anyway.

The clean and clear Crowsnest River

Lundbreck Falls is located on the Crowsnest River near the hamlet of Lundbreck. The falls tumble approximately 12 metres over the edge of a cliff and are quite popular due to their picturesque nature and ease of access. As mentioned we parked in the Lundbreck Falls Campground, which meant a leisurely stroll along a trail next to the Crowsnest River to reach the falls.

Our first view of the falls

Lundbreck Falls

View from above the falls

Looking at the falls from water level

The wildflowers were still blooming while we were there

After our wonderful experience at the falls we stopped at Oldman River Brewing for a quick pint where Cooper continued to add more dirt to his already messy self! 

This is how kids are supposed to look while camping! And no those are not bruises...that's dirt!

Our last stop before dinner was at Boulder Run Day-Use Area for a quick cool-down. It was a hot and dusty day, so we were feeling pretty grimy. The best way to remedy those problems is a brisk dip in the Oldman River. Boulder Run provided the perfect location for this as there's a slow-moving section of river, which is ideal for swimming, plus there's change rooms onsite.

Boulder Run Day Use Area

A refreshing dip in the Oldman River

Wildflowers blooming along the shoreline

The whole recreation area is named for the Oldman Dam that was completed in 1991. The reservoir that was created when the dam was built is a popular spot for water-based recreation and the prevalent breeze make this a wind-sport hotspot.

Oldman River Dam

Spillway Viewpoint

Panoramic shot of the Oldman Reservoir on an unusually calm morning

We had a fantastic weekend filled with new adventures and lots of laughs. We were all pleasantly surprised with the recreational opportunities available in this park and also close-by. I would definitely recommend this to anyone looking to branch-out from their usual camping spots and try something new. I think it's safe to say that we'll be back at some point. Until then...

Elk Island National Park

Trip Date: July 2018

I was asked to give an Outdoor Education presentation to a group of pre-service teachers and master's students at the University of Alberta, which I graciously accepted. I headed up to Edmonton a day early to finalize my presentation, but mostly to do some hiking in Elk Island National Park, which has been on my bucket list for quite some time. I'd always wanted to see the bison that call the park home and explore the landscape that is unique to central Alberta.

Welcome to Elk Island National Park

 Unfortunately the weather wasn't very cooperative on the day of my visit, but some rain and wind weren't going to stop me from enjoying a day outside. I arrived at the park early in the afternoon and headed for the Bison Loop Road, which is supposed to be a hot spot for viewing the park's resident bison. Bison are North America's largest terrestrial mammals and two separate species, Wood Bison and Plains Bison, call the park home. Elk Island is Canada's only fully fenced national park and the two species of bison are kept in separate areas to ensure they don't interbreed. The Wood Bison are larger than the Plains Bison and they can be found south of Highway 16. I spent all of my time on the north side of the highway, so my only chance of seeing bison would be the smaller Plains variety. Even though the park, which is 194 square-kilometres, is completely fenced, the bison are free to roam within its confines. Although there weren't any bison along the road I did stop at the famous red chairs that are present at all national parks and national historic sites across the country.

"Did you know that there are more bison at Elk Island National Park today than the whole of North America in 1890?"

You can read more about the Parks Canada Red Chair program by clicking here

After coming up short on the Bison Loop Road I continued north to the Amisk Wuche Trailhead. Amisk Wuche is a 2.5km moderate trail that winds through aspen, birch, and spruce stands. There are a series of floating boardwalks that assist in crossing small kettle lakes and beaver ponds. The trail also provides some elevated views of the surrounding forest and grassland habitat. Due to the weather I only saw two other people the entire time, but I did share the trail with hoards of mosquitoes! According to my visitor's guide I received upon arrival this is a moderate trail, featuring moderate to steep terrain and is 2.5km in length. The informative sign at the trailhead reads, 

"'Amisk Wuch' is Cree for 'Beaver Hills'. Elk Island National Park is situated within these hills, 30-60 metres above the surrounding plains. For thousands of years these forested hills attracted Aboriginal people from the northern plains. Imagine the appeal as you follow ponds that harbour Ruddy Ducks and Mallards. The slosh of Moose feeding along the edge reminds us that the Beaver Hills have always sustained wildlife. Explore the rich cultural and natural heritage of the home of the amisk (beaver) in Elk Island National Park."

Hiking along the Amisk Wuche Trail

Just one of the floating boardwalks you'll cross during this hike

You will also see several beaver lodges in the various wetlands

The trail is lush with vegetation

Look closely and you'll see a Wood Frog well-camouflaged with its surroundings. I was amazed at how many of these amphibians I saw. There were easily dozens of them throughout the hike.

Overlooking the wetlands from the trail

After completing the Amisk Wuche Trail I made my way down to the Astotin Lake Area, which could be considered the hub of Elk Island. The area includes a visitor centre, beaches, a golf course, campground, boat launch, and more. It's also home to several trailheads, including the one for my next hike; Lakeview Trail. This trail features panoramic views overlooking Astotin Lake and traverses through both Aspen and Black Spruce forest. The trail is considered easy with limited steep sections and a distance of 3.5km.

Another set of the Red Chairs overlooking Astotin Lake. What a view!

The classic view of Astotin Lake

Entering the Lakeview Trail

A typical section of trail

The trail offers great views of Astotin Lake and wetlands like the one above

As I was hiking the Lakeview Trail I came around a corner and was hit with the unmistakable smell of bovine. Bison smell an awful lot like cattle, so I instantly became very aware of my surroundings as I didn't want to spook any of the wildlife. I didn't end up seeing any bison, but the tall grass beside the trail was trampled down, possibly the site of a bed, and there were tracks along the muddy trail, which I am assuming are bison. Take a look at the photos below and see for yourself. What do you think?

Could this be where a bison bedded down?

I apologize for not putting something on the ground for scale, but I do believe these are bison tracks

One final view of Astotin Lake before making my way back to the parking lot

It would have been very easy, albeit unprofessional of me, to spend the rest of the day exploring the park and doing some more hiking, but I had other responsibilities that needed my attention in Edmonton, so I bid farewell to Elk Island. 

I feel like my brief visit was a great introduction to the park, but I barely scratched the surface of its full potential. I hope to return someday soon and do more exploring. I would love to hike one of the longer trails in the park, such as Tawayik Lake Trail or Wood Bison Trail, to get the full experience of what this park truly has to offer. As I was leaving I was disappointed I didn't see any of the park's famous wildlife, but Elk Island still had one last surprise for me. I spotted three large bulls grazing just inside the fence. It wasn't exactly what I was hoping for in terms of photos, but still really cool seeing them in their traditional territory like this. I could have watched them a lot longer than I was able to.

A Plains Bison bull grazing at Elk Island National Park

Close-up of this bull chewing grasses

They are certainly majestic animals

Until next time Elk Island...

Cypress Hills: Firerock

Trip Date: July 2018

In early July we headed east for the Cypress Hills, which is quickly becoming one of my favourite places to camp. In what is quickly becoming an annual tradition, friends of ours from Regina joined us for an extended weekend of camping and exploring. As you might remember I was sent to Cypress Hills last summer while on assignment with ZenSeekers to report about the growing mountain biking scene that was happening there. In July 2016 the same group of friends all met us in the park for a similar weekend of fun. Our first trip there was actually back in 2010 though, but it was in the Centre Block on the Saskatchewan side of the park.

Welcome to Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park

Since I'm off for the summer, Cooper and I headed out Thursday morning to setup camp and start our weekend early. Christine was working, but planned to join us Friday afternoon. After an uneventful drive we rolled into the Firerock Campground and began setting up camp. I really like the Firerock Campground because the sites are well-treed and private. It's also located at the western end of the park, meaning it's quiet and relaxing. Much like our camping trip at Little Elbow Equestrian last month the sites were primitive, so we'd be running off battery power and some new solar panels I just purchased. Thankfully there was absolutely no rain in the forecast, however we did get hit with a massive heatwave...basically from one extreme to the next!

The blooming Canola fields certainly add a splash of colour to the drive. Those are the Cypress Hills rising above the field in the background.

We also had the fortune of seeing and photographing this male Pronghorn just outside the park gates. They don't usually stick around long enough for me to snap a photo.

This was our campsite in the Firerock Campground

Maybe it was all the excitement of another camping trip or it was just still too hot inside the camper, but Cooper did not want to go to bed Thursday night. In what is quickly becoming my go-to move, I put him in the truck hoping a drive through the hills would have him snoring in no time. The drive along Murray Hill Road is absolutely gorgeous and offers terrific opportunities to spot some of the park's abundant wildlife.

This dude isn't tired at all!

This is Head of the Mountain viewpoint, which is also the highest point in the Cypress Hills

The informative sign nearby reads,

"At 1,466 metres you are standing on the highest point in the Cypress Hills, and the highest point of land in Canada between the Rockies and Labrador. And what a view! On a clear day, you can see the Sweetgrass Hills in Montana over 100 kilometres away. 

The connection between the Sweetgrass Hills and these hills spans much more than the view. It began about 50 million years ago, before either existed. Firey hot magma raised the Earth's surface, hardened underground as igneous rock, and later became exposed through erosion to form the Sweetgrass Hills. As the land rose, rivers carried cobbles and gravel, and deposited them here. Over millions of years, as rivers and glaciers carved this plateau, those cobbles and gravel became the caprock of the Cypress Hills. 

Sweetgrass and Cypress: in spite of their distance, their relationship is rock solid." 

Just one of the nearly two dozen deer we spotted on our evening drive

A squadron of Pelicans searching for food on Reesor Lake

Sunset in the Cypress Hills

After a good night's sleep (finally) and eating a hearty breakfast the two of us set course for Fort Walsh National Historic Site, which is located just 50km away on the Saskatchewan side of the park. The fort itself is pretty cool and therefore deserves its own post, which you can read about by following this link.

Even with the temperature in the campground pushing +35 degrees Celsius, it didn't stop us from hitting a few of the amazing trails for some mountain biking. As previously mentioned I was sent on assignment to report on all the amazing trails being developed in the Elkwater area by the 670 Collective, the local mountain biking club out of Medicine Hat. I had previously ridden many of the trails, but we opted to explore Plateau and Mystery Trails before descending Cobble Miner. The buddy I was with hadn't done much riding in the past, but he was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the trails and the super fun descent.

Cruising along Plateau Trail

Having some fun along Mystery Trail

We found ourselves in the deep stuff here!

While we enjoyed some two-wheeled fun the rest of the crew hit the beach to cool off. Cooper's love of the water continued even though the lake was far from bathtub temperature. As you can see the kids were instant friends!

Cooper playing in Elkwater Lake

So maybe the boat isn't in the water anymore, but it's still fun!

Before hitting the highway Sunday afternoon I had time to sneak in one last bike ride. I powered up Tower Trail before descending the new Mazama Drop, which is named after Mount Mazama, a volcano in Oregon that erupted around 5,700BC and some of the ash made it all the way to Alberta. The trail is very well-built and incredibly fun to ride!

Descending Mazama Drop

Just one of the viewpoints along the trail

Every time I visit the Cypress Hills area I find something new and exciting to learn or try. There is no shortage of recreational options available and I feel like I'm still just scratching the surface. Here's hoping to another trip next summer for more adventures.