London, England

Trip Date: November 2016

At the beginning of November Christine and I boarded a plane for the United Kingdom. We were definitely bitten by the travel bug again (our last big international trip was to Cuba) and needed to get away for a while so we had planned a two-week vacation for England, Northern Ireland, and Ireland. Neither of us had been to any of those countries before, but WestJet had an incredible seat sale during the summer so we couldn't pass up the opportunity to see a few new places. Our vacation started in London, England where we spent five days exploring the historic city.

England's Flag

London is the capital city of England and its largest city with 13.8 million people in the metro area. London sits on the banks of the River Thames in the southeast corner of the island of Great Britain. The city has been a major settlement for more than two millennia and was originally founded by the Romans around year 43.

London's location within England and the island of Great Britain

After an overnight flight we landed at London's Gatwick Airport and boarded the train that would take us to the city. Although jet-lag was a real concern we didn't want to go to bed after getting to the hotel and waste one of our days in the city so we headed out to see a few sites. We were staying in the city of Westminster, which was pretty central to many of London's biggest attractions. We walked from our hotel to the River Thames and made our way towards the Palace of Westminster. The palace was built in 1016 and is the meeting place of the House of Commons and the House of Lords; the two houses of Parliament of the United Kingdom. The palace is most famous for Big Ben. Most people believe that Big Ben is the clock tower on the north end of the palace, but the name's actually in reference to the heaviest of the five bells located within the tower.

The Elizabeth Tower is the home of the Great Clock of Westminster and Big Ben

Across from the palace is Westminster Abbey; a 700-year-old Gothic-style church. It is one of the United Kingdom's most notable religious buildings and is the traditional place of coronation and burial site for English monarchs.

Westminster Abbey

As the sun was sitting low in the sky we made our way to Trafalgar Square, a popular public square in central London. The name commemorates the Battle of Trafalgar, which was a British naval victory during the Napoleonic Wars in 1805 off the coast of Cape Trafalgar in Spain. Trafalgar Square is dominated by Nelson's Column, a 51-metre (170-foot) memorial to Admiral Horatio Nelson who died during the Battle of Trafalgar. The National Gallery, which houses art from the 13th to 19th centuries, occupies the norther portion of the square.

Trafalgar Square at sunset

After our evening of site seeing we were pretty wiped so we called it a day. We still had several days to explore London and we wanted to be well rested. The next day we decided to buy passes for the hop-on hop-off bus tour. The buses basically pass all the major sites that we wanted to see and since it was the off-season the 24-hour pass was valid for double that amount of time for the same price. To reach the bus stop we walked through Green Park, one of four Royal Parks in London, and came across the Canada Memorial. This monument was designed by Canadian Pierre Granche and commemorates the Canadian Forces killed during the First and Second World Wars. Canada Memorial is conveniently located near Canada Gate, one of the entrances to Green Park. The gate was a gift from Canada in celebration of its contributions to the then British Empire. 

Canada Memorial in Green Park

Canada Gate marks one of the entrances to Green Park

Our first stop on the bus tour was St. Paul's Cathedral. This Anglican Cathedral was built in the late 17th century during a major rebuilding effort in the city after the Great Fire of London. The cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of London and the mother church of the Diocese of London. St. Paul's sits atop Ludgate Hill; the highest point in the city and is one of the most famous and recognizable sites in all of London.

St. Paul's Cathedral

The silver dragon marks the the boundaries of the City of London

A section of the original London Wall that enclosed the whole city dating back to the 2nd century

Across the street from the London Wall is the famous Tower of London. This historic castle, originally built in 1066, sits on the banks of the River Thames. Over the years the Tower has served a variety of roles including an armoury, a treasury, a menagerie, the home of the Royal Mint, a public record office, and currently as the home of the Crown Jewels of England. The Tower of London is also famous for its ceremonial guards, the Beefeaters.

The Tower of London

The Tower of London with the White Tower (right) prominently displayed

Spanning the River Thames and visible from the Tower of London is one of London's iconic symbols; the Tower Bridge. The bridge was constructed between 1886 and 1894 and stands 65 metres (213 feet) tall.

London's famed Tower Bridge

Included in our bus package was a tour down the River Thames. Our guide was phenomenal for this short cruise and we were able to get a different perspective on many of London's biggest sites.

The Tower of London's White Tower as viewed from the water

A river view of the Tower Bridge

The London Eye and the Palace of Westminster at sunset

A visit to London wouldn't be complete without seeing the royal residence, Buckingham Palace. The palace has served as the London residence for the reigning monarch of the United Kingdom since 1837. Buckingham Palace has 775 rooms, 98 offices, and 78 bathrooms and continues to be the venue for many royal events and ceremonies.

Buckingham Palace

Eventually we made our way over to Hyde Park, another Royal Park and one of the biggest parks in all of London. We entered the park via Hyde Park Corner, a major intersection where six streets all converge. Here you will also find the Wellington Arch; a triumphal arch commemorating Britain's victories in the Napoleonic Wars. The arch was built between 1826 and 1830 by Decimus Burton and was originally intended to be an entrance to Buckingham Palace.

The Wellington Arch at Hyde Park Corner

Hyde Park is divided by the Serpentine and the Long Water. The park was filled with beautiful fall foliage and despite the rainy day we still enjoyed exploring the park and seeing all the resident waterfowl.

Various species of waterfowl looking to be fed along the Serpentine

One of the highlights of our time in London was taking in a Premiere League football (soccer) match at London Stadium. We managed (somehow) to secure tickets to West Ham United vs. Stoke City. We were a little nervous as West Ham had been in the news recently due to brawls and fist fights in the stands during games. West Ham is a notoriously tough team with even tougher fans, so we needed to stay vigilant. We didn't know exactly what to expect even though we'd previously been to a game in Brazil and I attended another while in China. To be completely honest the West Ham fans were pretty tame during this 1-1 draw. They were more subdued than the Brazilian fans in Rio. Maybe it was the threat of banning all fans from future games and playing in an empty stadium that calmed everybody down.

London Stadium was used as the Olympic Stadium when London hosted the 2012 Summer Games

Enjoying a pre-game beverage outside the stadium. West Ham's nicknames are The Irons and The Hammers, hence this logo.

Inside the open-air stadium

During our last evening in London, while Christine was napping, I headed out for one more walking tour along the river. I was rewarded with different views of previously seen sites, but was more than happy to just be out exploring this beautiful city.

The Palace of West Minster and Big Ben across the River Thames

One of London's iconic red telephone booths. I think they're more of a tourist attraction now as the only people I saw inside them were taking photos and selfies!

London was definitely one of my favourite parts of this entire trip. The city is just so big, with so much history! There is an endless supply of things to do and see that you're never bored. I hope to get back to London at some point in the future and spend more time there, but we didn't have much time to reflect on our stay as we needed to catch a flight to Belfast in Northern Ireland.

Stewart Canyon

Trip Date: October 2016



Stewart Canyon is a family-friendly hike in Banff National Park. Up until recently I had avoided this hike due to the overwhelming crowds, but recently I found myself in Banff with a couple of hours to spare so I thought I'd give it a try. I was pleasantly surprised with the beauty offered by this hike and in the middle of October I basically had the entire place to myself! The hike is 1.5km one-way, but that distance can be easily extended. The elevation gain is negligible, which makes it perfect for an easy outing. The trailhead for this hike is the Lake Minnewanka Day-Use Area.

Lake Minnewanka definitely isn't hard on the eyes!

Before reaching the trailhead you'll pass a set of Parks Canada's Red Chairs on Minnewanka's shoreline. You can read all about the Red Chair Program right here.

The trailhead for Stewart Canyon

The trail follows the Lake Minnewanka shoreline and ends at a bridge that spans the steep walls of Stewart Canyon. Beneath the bridge the Cascade River flows into Lake Minnewanka. Officially this marks the end of the Stewart Canyon Trail, but is also the beginning of the Minnewanka Shoreline Trail, which continues for another 15km until reaching the backcountry warden's cabin.

A typical section of the trail

Another section of the trail with a great view of Mount Inglismaldie

The bridge that spans Stewart Canyon

Looking up Stewart Canyon

The Cascade River flowing into Lake Minnewanka

Just past the bridge you will find an unofficial trail junction. Going right will keep you on the Minnewanka Shoreline Trail while heading left will take you on a more rugged trail atop the eastern side of Stewart Canyon. I opted to go left and trekked along a trail that featured great views of the crystal clear water of the Cascade River far below. After approximately 1.2km the trail abruptly drops down to a boulder field with a shallow creek running through it. From here it's easy to rock-hop your way down to the Cascade River and is a perfect spot to stop for awhile. Due to my late start, the quickly fading light, and the ever-present threat of rain this was also my turnaround point. I spent a short while relaxing by the river and snapping a few photos before hitting the trail once again and heading for home.

The boulder field with the Cascade River down below

The Cascade River flowing beneath Mount Astley

Keep in mind that the Minnewanka Shoreline Trail is a multi-use trail and is open to other recrationalists other than just hikers. There is also an seasonal restriction in place from July 10 to September 15, so be sure to check the trail report before heading out.

The setting sun made for some interesting light at dusk

Sunset in the Rockies

If you're like me and want to avoid the crowds give this hike a try in shoulder season or maybe even in the winter for a completely difference perspective on things.

Pocaterra Cirque

Trip Date: October 2016

If you're looking to view the golden Larch Trees in the fall but want to avoid the crowds in Larch Valley you should try Pocaterra Cirque. The trail is located in the Highwood Pass area of Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, which is in Kananaskis Country. It's worth mentioning that at 2,206 metres (7,239 feet) Highwood Pass is the highest paved road in Canada. Please note that a section of this highway (Highway 40) is closed from December 1 to June 14 between the Peter Lougheed Provincial Park entrance and the Highwood House Junction. This means that this hike and others in the area are inaccessible (at least with vehicle assistance) during that timeframe.

The sign at the summit of Highwood Pass

The trailhead for Pocaterra Cirque is the Highwood Meadows Day Use Area, which is the same as the Ptarmigan Cirque trailhead. Ptarmigan Cirque is more popular than Pocaterra Cirque, so don't be too alarmed if the parking lot is full when you arrive. The trailhead is approximately 140km southwest of downtown Calgary. Pocaterra Cirque is considered an unofficial trail and you won't find it listed on the map at the trailhead. It is clearly marked on the Gem Trek map we were using and the trail is well-worn and easy to find. This trail is also a great jump-off point for longer day-trips including Pocaterra Ridge, Grizzly Col, and Mount Tyrwhitt. We only went as far as the Cirque on this trip, which was approximately 7km roundtrip with about 400m gained in elevation. The parking lot was fairly empty when we arrived at about 9:00am and the temperature was hovering around -3 degrees Celcius. The sun was quickly rising and there wasn't a cloud in the sky, so we were expecting a great day outside.

The trail through Highwood Meadows with Storm Mountain in the background

The trail starts on the Highwood Meadows Interpretive Trail but you'll quickly reach a fork. If you go right you'll access Ptarmigan Cirque whereas left will take you to Pocaterra Cirque. We opted for the left fork and began our day. If you've never been on this trail before (which we hadn't) you might find it a bit confusing at first. The trail is quite braided in areas due to running water and muddy sections. As far as we could tell all of the braids eventually lead to the same spot so don't be too concerned. After a short time you'll reach another unsigned fork in the trail. This fork didn't appear on our map so we were a bit worried about it. There's a faint arrow carved into the tree bark pointing left and a small piece of flagging tape on the left side of the tree, so we opted to go left once again. Eventually we arrived at the Cirque so we assumed we had made the right decision. It wasn't until we were on our way back that we discovered either trail would take you to the same destination. If I were to do it all over again I think I would go right as it felt like the easier of the two trails. Please be aware that there are numerous trails winding throughout the forest regardless of your choice at the fork so some basic route finding skills are required.

Here's the fork in the trail. If you look closely you can see the arrow pointing left carved into the tree.

Christine on the trail

The Cirque and a few larch trees peeking through the forest

This is where the trail opens into the meadow before crossing a few avalanche slopes

The first section of the trail is in the trees without much to see, but it eventually opens into a lush meadow with spectacular views. The trail follows an unnamed ridge on your left with unmatched vistas of the Kananaskis Valley and Pocaterra Ridge on your right. In front of you lies the Cirque with countless Larch trees shining in the sun. We continued along the open trail until we reached a small unnamed lake. It's a perfect spot to stop for a snack and snap some photos as the scenery here is gorgeous!

You're rewarded with great views down the valley of Mount Rae (right) and Elpoca Mountain (centre)

Even though the trail was covered in Larch needles many of the trees were still clinging to theirs!

Elpoca Mountain

The small unnamed lake with Pocaterra Ridge on the right in the background

The final push to the Cirque is pretty straightforward. As you approach the Cirque the trail has a couple of options. The trail to the right eventually leads to Pocaterra Ridge (I hope to be back next year to tackle this), while the lefthand option takes you up to Grizzly Col. We went left for a short distance before branching off and finding a big boulder in the Cirque to sit on and enjoy lunch in the warm sunshine.

The final push up to the Cirque. Here I am looking back down the trail with Mount Rae in the background.

Another small meadow immediately below the Cirque. That's Mount Rae peeking above the Larch Trees.

The view from the Cirque

Rome and I standing in the Cirque with Mount Tyrwhitt in the background

Even thought it was warm in the sun the wind coming off of Mount Tyrwhitt was very chilly, so after a quick bite to eat we were back on the trail and headed for the truck. The trail is equally as beautiful on the way back down and the sun that was now above the surrounding peaks made the hike out all the more enjoyable.

Golden Larch Trees

Back at the small lake

I could have spent all afternoon sitting beside this body of water

Christine standing amongst the Larch

One last look at the Cirque before entering the forest-covered section of the trail

Once back at the truck we realized just how popular Ptarmigan Cirque could be. The parking lot was completely packed and there were dozens of vehicles parked on either side of Highway 40. It didn't feel like the Pocaterra Cirque was very busy so most people were likely headed to Ptarmigan.

I can't wait to come back here next year and explore beyond the Cirque. As I previously mentioned Pocaterra Ridge looks like a great day-trip and it's now firmly on my adventure list. We couldn't have asked for a better day at the beginning of October when the weather can be notoriously unpredictable. If this was the last hike of the season we definitely picked a great one!

Taylor Lake

Trip Date: September 2016

Autumn in Alberta means changing colours, fewer crowds, and no bugs; a recipe perfect for hiking in the Rockies! The Larch Trees are one of the biggest draws for people to get outside and enjoy the beauty of the fall season. Alpine Larch are fairly small, slow-growing deciduous coniferous trees typically found at higher elevations. Describing a tree as both deciduous and coniferous might seem contradictory but Larch Trees feature characteristics of both. Trees in the deciduous family are typically leaf bearing and those leaves change colour and eventually drop to the ground in the fall. Coniferous trees on the other hand, are needle bearing and usually don't change colour, hence the name evergreen. Larch Trees are covered in needles and look similar to other evergreen species, however they lose all of their needles at the start of winter, but not before turning a vibrant golden colour. It's this drastic colour change that lures thousands of visitors to the mountains each autumn.

Starting the hike

The trail crosses Taylor Creek a couple of times

Likely the most popular trail for viewing the Larch Trees is the aptly named Larch Valley in Banff National Park, but if the weather is nice the trail and corresponding parking lot are overrun with people. I can't blame them as the scenery is truly spectacular, but those endless crowds can get old after awhile. Luckily there are other options for Larch viewing in Banff.

A typical section of the Taylor Lake Trail

Unfortunately the Larch Trees don't become visible until you're near the lake

One of those options is Taylor Lake, one of the most accessible high lakes on the western slope of the Bow Valley. The lake is set in a picturesque natural amphitheatre that was carved by a glacier from the quartzite and limestone bedrock of Panorama Ridge and Mount Bell. The trailhead is located approximately 165km west of Calgary or about 20km east of Lake Louise along the Trans Canada Highway. The hike itself is listed as 6.3km one-way (12.6km roundtrip) with an elevation gain of 585m, but we found the distance might be inaccurate. Our group was using two different smartphone apps to track our progress and both of them reported the distance to the lake as being closer to 8km. We also ran into a solo hiker using a handheld GPS and his distance was almost 8km as well. I asked a representative for Banff about the distance and was told that it was accurate as they double-checked it using guidebooks and a topographical map. I'm not discounting the Parks Canada staff at all, I just want to make everyone aware that there could be some discrepancy in the actual distance and the hike itself might be between 6.3 and 8.0km one-way.

Our first glimpse of Mount Bell

The final crossing of Taylor Creek

The trail follows a well-built track as it steadily switch-backs its way through the forest until finally opening up into a meadow near the lake's outlet. This section of the hike was very soggy as the ground was fully saturated. Route finding was key during this short section otherwise the result was soaking wet feet. From the meadow the lakeshore is a quick walk through the trees before opening up again near the backcountry campground (Ta6).

Mount Bell as viewed from the meadow. You can also see the Larch Trees here!

Taylor Lake

Unfortunately the wind coming off the lake was quite chilly and the clouds opened up with a light rain. We bundled up in additional layers and ate lunch along the shoreline, but didn't stick around too long due to the biting wind. We would have liked to have stuck around longer and done some additional exploring, but that'll have to wait until another day.

Mount Bell as viewed from the Taylor Lake backcountry campground

Christine enjoying the scenery

Our last look at Taylor Lake before heading back to the truck

Once back on the trail we were sheltered from the wind and began to warm up fairly quickly. The hike back to the parking lot was uneventful, but we were all quite happy with the day's results.

Heading for home!