Fort Calgary

Trip Date: May 2017

What was it like to stand in the middle of a wide open prairie and imagine a city?

               ~Inscription on Mountie statue outside Fort Calgary.

Aerial view of Fort Calgary. Photo Credit: Yellowhouse Aerial

Fort Calgary Welcomes You!

The confluence of the Bow and Elbow Rivers is a culturally significant place that lies at the heart of traditional Blackfoot territory. Known as Moh'Kinsstis to the Blackfoot people the confluence has special meaning for the bands of the Blackfoot Confederacy. According to legend the confluence is the place where Napi created people, tracing history to the the roots of humanity itself. Considering First Nation people have inhabited the Bow River watershed for more than 10,000 years there might be an air of truth to that legend. The joining of the water has held its significance as a place of gathering for thousands of years.

Meet Buffy Bison. This statue greets visitors to Fort Calgary and also acts as a reminder of what the prairies were like prior to settlement.

A classic photo of Fort Calgary. Photo Credit: Glenbow Archives

An archived photo of the Calgary Barracks. Photo Credit: Glenbow Archives

The confluence was also chosen as the site of Fort Calgary; just one in a series of forts that were erected by the North West Mounted Police (NWMP) in an attempt to bring law and order to the unruly west, strengthen Canadian sovereignty, and to pave the way for treaties that were needed for settlement. In 1874 a large party consisting of officers and enlisted men completed their arduous journey from Fort Dufferin, Manitoba to Fort Whoop-Up, a notoriously raucous place with a reputation for whiskey trading. They found the fort mostly abandoned, so they moved in and later established Fort Macleod further to the west. In 1875 they broke ground on Fort Calgary, known at the time as the Bow Fort, without the slightest idea they were laying the foundation for a major modern-day city. The fort was built in as little as six weeks under the command of Inspector Ephrem Brisebois, who attempted to rename it after himself upon its completion. Due to the fact Brisebois had no authority to rename the fort Commissioner James Macleod recommended the name 'Calgary' after Calgary Bay on the Isle of Mull in Scotland, the commissioner's ancestral home. The name stuck and the emergence of Calgary was officially underway.

This statue of Commissioner James Macleod is prominently featured on the grounds of Fort Calgary

The reconstructed Calgary Barracks were designed to look as they did in 1888

The late 1800's was a time of unrest and transformation. European influence was wreaking havoc on the local First Nation population, the bison were being hunted at an alarming rate, and the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) was looming on the horizon. The Canadian Government needed to extinguish First Nation title to the land before settlement could occur and this was done through the use of treaties. While using Fort Calgary as his home-base Macleod was a lead negotiator for Treaty 7. He was a trusted adviser to the local First Nation community and was even bestowed the name "Bull's Head" by Chief Crowfoot. Treaty 7, the last of the Numbered Treaties between the federal government and the Plains First Nations, was signed on September 22, 1877 at Blackfoot Crossing. The Treaty encompasses virtually all of southern Alberta and is still in effect today.

There's a timeline of events outside the interpretive centre

A reconstruction of what the inside of the fort would have looked like

The original fort only lasted until 1882 when it was torn down and replaced with more substantial structures in preparation for the CPR's arrival in 1883. As the whiskey trade dried up Fort Calgary finalized its transition from simple whiskey fort to the Calgary Barracks and became the focal point of a burgeoning community. In addition to being the centre of police administration the barracks also contained a rudimentary hospital and was used for a variety of social functions. The post was also the main hub for settlers, ranchers, and entrepreneurs arriving in Canada's rapidly-growing west.

Fort Calgary was awarded National Historic Site status in 1925 with this stone marker

In 1914 the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway purchased Fort Calgary. Eventually they turned around and sold it to the Canadian National Railway, effectively concealing Calgary's roots for the next 60 years beneath a railway yard. Due to the concerted efforts of Alderman Jon Ayer the site of Calgary's origin was thrust back into the public consciousness when The City of Calgary purchased the site in 1974 with the intent of preserving it for its historical significance.

The illuminated outline of the original Fort Calgary was created by Jill Anholt and is called Markings. Photo Credit: Yellowhouse Aerial

Today the confluence is still a place of great significance as it's where the past meets the present. Although not much exists anymore from Fort Calgary or the Calgary Barracks pieces of the fort's original foundation were found during an archaeological investigation and are still in the ground til this day. The interpretive centre and museum are located inside the reconstructed 1888 barracks and feature multiple interactive exhibits from Calgary's first 100 years. Nearby you can visit the Deane House, the city's only remaining NWMP building and now a fine dining restaurant, and the Hunt House, the oldest building in Calgary still in its original location. The Hunt House was built in 1876 as part of the Hudson’s Bay Trading Post. Outside the interpretive centre is an art exhibit called Markings that was created by Jill Anholt and outlines the fort's original footprint. Strolling through the museum or exploring the 40-acre grounds allows visitors to discover the people and events that helped shape Calgary's legacy. Fort Calgary is not only a place where rivers and cultures meet, but is a living testament to the ongoing relationship between people and the land.

The NWMP Veterans' Association placed this historic marker on the site of the original Fort Calgary back in 1917

These modern pillars reside at the intersection of 6th Street SE and 9th Avenue SE

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Katie Novak and Erica Olstead, the past and present Education Coordinators at Fort Calgary, for their willingness to help with this story. Without your knowledge and expertise this story just wouldn't have been the same. For additional information about Fort Calgary please visit their website or connect with them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. Also of note the original Treaty 7 document will be on display at Fort Calgary this summer. The 140-year-old document is on loan from the National Archives and will be on display from mid-June through October of this year.

Please note this story also appears on the Calgary Guardian website under the title, From Police Outpost to Modern City.

Weaselhead Flats

Trip Date: January 2017

The Weaselhead Flats Natural Area is a vast tract of wilderness that borders the western end of the Glenmore Reservoir and connects North Glenmore Park with South Glenmore Park. The Weaselhead comprises 237 hectares of wilderness sandwiched between the city and the Tsuu T'ina Nation. The park's name is still a mystery, but is likely named after Chief Weaselhead, the leader of the Tsuu T'ina Nation at the time of European contact. The Weaselhead officially became a park in the early 1980's, but not before surviving a colourful history.

Weaselhead Trail Map including Oxbow Trail (3.1km), Weaselhead Trail (2.0km), Jackrabbit Trail (4.1km), Meadow Trail (1.1km), Delta Trail (0.8km), Viewpoint Trail (0.2km), and the Regional Pathway.

First Nation groups were the original settlers of the modern-day Weaselhead. In the Blackfoot language the area is called 'moll-inistsi-in-aka-apewis' or 'Elbow Many Houses' in reference to the multiple and changing river courses through the flat river plain. This flat valley provided excellent shelter for many First Nation groups during the harsh winter months.

A panoramic shot of the Glenmore Reservoir

The Elbow River (originally known as the Swift River) originates at the Rae Glacier in Kananaskis Country west of Calgary. It meanders east over the landscape before eventually joining the Bow River near downtown Calgary. Sam Livingstone, an early Calgary pioneer, first settled in the area that is now the Glenmore Reservoir and gave the name 'Glenmore', which is Gaelic for 'big valley', to the whole area. In 1933 the Glenmore Dam was completed to ensure a consistent supply of fresh water for Calgary's citizens. This major interruption in the Elbow's flow created the Glenmore Reservoir and the Weaselhead Flats as we know them today began to take shape.

The Elbow River meandering through the Weaselhead before reaching the Glenmore Reservoir

Between 1908 and 1998 the Weaselhead, in conjunction with Harvey Barracks and Sarcee Training Area (the latter two are again part of the Tsuu T'ina Nation), were leased from Tsuu T'ina by the Canadian Armed Forces and used for military training exercises. As a result the Department of Defence continues to work closely with the City of Calgary and the Calgary Police Service to locate and recover any unexploded explosive ordinance (UXO) that may still be present in the area. During the devastating floods of 2013 a lot of soil and vegetation was washed away uncovering previously buried unexplored ordinance, prompting officials to close the park until a thorough search could be completed. Although the chance of discovering UXO is considered remote please follow these guidelines in the off-chance you stumble across something.

Exploring one of the many trails in the area

Today where the Elbow River enters the reservoir there is a wide river delta that is home to a large variety of flora and fauna. A paved pathway that circles the entire reservoir is a popular destination for many Calgarians. There are also numerous trails dissecting the Weaselhead for you to explore. The park is home to more than 200 species of birds, both migratory and permanent residents, as well as a plethora of mammals, including beaver, muskrat, deer, moose, coyote, bobcat, squirrel, mink, rabbit, and even black bear.

A Blue Jay snacking on nuts and seeds provided by a generous park visitor

This coyote is sporting a healthy winter coat

A brightly-coloured male Pine Grosbeak enjoying a few sunflower seeds

Outdoor enthusiasts love the recreation opportunities provided by the Weaselhead and allow many folks to stay closer to home instead of venturing outside the city for running, biking, hiking, paddling, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and wildlife viewing. One of my favourite things about the park is once you disappear into the Weaselhead for an afternoon of exploration you won't even feel like you're in the city anymore. As Calgarians we're pretty lucky to have numerous green spaces within the city limits and the Weaselhead is one of those special wilderness settings just begging to be explored!

Christine and I on one of our many bike rides through the park

For more information about the Weaselhead Natural Area please visit the Weaselhead/Glenmore Park Preservation Society website. You can also connect with them on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. In addition you can view some great photography (including a few additions by yours truly) on the Weaselhead Photography webpage.

A flock of Bohemian Waxwings perched at the top of a tree

A female White-Tailed Deer watching me closely