Britches On A Branch

Please note this story first appeared on the Calgary Guardian website under the same name, but this version has additional photographs.

Looking up at the swanky tree at Sunshine Village. Photo Credit: Sunshine Village

Sometime around the middle of the twentieth century a new species of tree was found blooming in the vicinity of a mountain resort. This tree was unlike any other plant species previously discovered. It would blossom and grow during the darkness and cold of the harsh winter months and its leaves were oddly shaped and simply out of place next to Mother Nature's other creations. Although nobody knows for certain how such a tree began to take root it survived, some say thrived, and slowly began reproducing in the mountainous regions of the North American continent. If you haven't already figured it out I am referring to the infamous Underwear Tree, also affectionately known as the Bra Tree or the Panty tree, that grow within easy throwing distance of a chairlift.

This tree at Sunshine is below the Angel Chair. Photo Credit: Sunshine Village

The lineage of the first Underwear Tree has, unfortunately, been lost to time, but there are two common beliefs as to the whereabouts of the original specimen. During the late 1950's and early 1960's America entered what is commonly referred to as the Sexual Revolution where people first began challenging the accepted beliefs towards sexuality. The urge to find oneself and buck society's sexual norms likely played a role in sprouting the nation's first Panty Tree. Beneath the Bell Mountain chairlift at Aspen Mountain Resort the satiny buds of that early tree began to emerge. The women's undergarments, likely tossed by ski patrol's male members, were hung like trophies from the previous night's conquests. Depending on who you talk to it's also been said that the underwear needed to be stolen without the other person knowing before they could be contributed to the prized tree.

Looking down on the Underwear Tree at Lake Louise. Photo Credit: Jasper Johnson

The other commonly referenced origin story also places the tree at Aspen except its birth wasn't until the mid-1980's. According to a veteran patroller someone tossed a brazier into the tree bearing the name of a controversial figure within the skiing community. The humorous stunt was so well received that during its heyday more than fifty bras and other unmentionables could be counted hanging from the crowded branches. The tree transformed into a symbol of rebellion. Officials threatened to remove the tree and ban those who were participating in the knicker-lobbing escapades, which only lead to an increase in action.

As you can see this tree has had several contributions over the years. Photo Credit: Sunshine Village

Aspen's time in the skivvy spotlight was cut short due to the installation of their gondola and the discontinued use of the Bell Chair in the early 1990's, but the story doesn't end there. The Underwear Tree re-spawned at another popular Colorado ski resort, Vail. According to legend the initial pair of panties were procured during a particularly steamy gondola ride. After complaints from concerned families over its appropriateness Vail's original tree was chopped down, but it was reborn in one of the resort's back bowls and has flourished there ever since. If Aspen gets the distinction of being the first to have a Bra Tree than Vail is credited as the one to make it famous. The tree reached its pinnacle of popularity in 2004 when the after-dinner cocktail giant Grand Marnier used the tree as part of their marketing strategy. The tagline for the advertisement stated, "You just recognized a pair of panties in the Sundown Bowl tree...the conversation is waiting."

If you're looking to contribute, the tree at Lake Louise is below the Paradise Chair. Photo Credit: Jasper Johnson

Word travels fast, but tales of erotic triumphs are even faster. Combine all that folklore with Vail's critical acclaim and it's easy to see why countless winter resorts now boast a tree of their very own. The tradition has even spread north of the border and many resorts here in Alberta aren't immune to the Underwear Tree's silky blossoms. Lake Louise has one. So does Castle Mountain. Marmot Basin's is located beneath the Knob Chair, which cannot be a coincidence. Sunshine actually has multiple trees scattered throughout its boundaries. But the rest of Canada is not immune to the deluge of the provocative plant either. There have also been sightings at mountain resorts in British Columbia and as far away as Ontario.

You can see it's not just women's underwear, but also Mardi Gras beads and even a pair of sneakers! Photo Credit: Sunshine Village

I have no doubt the true spirit of that first tree still lives on to some degree, but I believe the reasons for disrobing today are far greater reaching than the original intent. Maybe it's just some spur of the moment fun or that skiing commando is the right amount of risque in your life or perhaps the occasion is a little more on the racy side, whatever your reason the tree will be waiting. These days you're just as likely to see men's boxers, briefs, and gitch suspended alongside those bright lacy panties and animal-print bras we've come to expect. The statement is obviously far less political and nowadays the one contributing the negligee is just as likely to be female in what was once a male dominated venture. Despite its lewd beginnings and contentious nature the Underwear Tree's lineage runs deep and is in no danger of being uprooted any time soon.

A close-up of the colourful contributions to one of Sunshine's trees. Photo Credit: Sunshine Village

Glacier Adventure & Glacier Skywalk

Trip Date: August 2017

To continue my reporting on Brewster's Ultimate Explorer Pass I present my recap of the Glacier Adventure and Glacier Skywalk tours. My first story was about the Minnewanka Lake Cruise and like that article this one can also be found on the Calgary Guardian website.

Welcome To The Icefield Centre in Jasper National Park

“The view that lay before us in the evening light was one that does not often fall to the lot of modern mountaineers. A new world was spread at our feet: to the westward stretched a vast ice-field probably never before seen by the human eye, and surrounded by entirely unknown, unnamed and unclimbed peaks.”

~J. Norman Collie - First European (with Herman Wooley) to discover the Columbia Icefield in 1898

The Icefield Discovery Centre with Nigel Peak in the background

Set foot on ancient glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies and check glacier exploration off your bucket list. The Columbia Icefield is nestled at the heart of the Icefields Parkway and straddles the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks. It is the largest icefield south of the Arctic Circle, encompassing some 325-square-kilometres. One of its main tongues, the Athabasca Glacier, is estimated to be 13,000 years old and holds the distinction of being the most visited glacier in all of North America due to its proximity to the highway. Glaciers are inherently dangerous places. Specialized training, technical mountaineering skills, and proper gear are all essential for safely traversing their icy surfaces. Thankfully with the help of Brewster Travel Canada you can now explore the Athabasca Glacier without the need for lengthy training sessions or expensive gear.

The Athabasca Glacier as viewed from the Icefield Discovery Centre

A panoramic shot from the Icefield Centre

This is the Ice Explorer that transported us to and from the glacier

Glaciers are the prolonged accumulation of snow that, over a number of years, is compressed into solid ice. In the case of the Columbia Icefield its depth ranges from 100 to 365 metres, making it exceptionally thick. Glaciers are unique in that they're constantly moving, but at a very slow rate. Think of the Columbia Icefield as a large frozen lake and its glaciers (it feeds eight major ones) are like large slow-moving rivers of ice. The rocky debris that you see surrounding glaciers are called moraines. Terminal moraines are located at the foot of the glacier and indicate its maximum advancement while lateral moraines accumulate along its edges.

Exploring the Athabasca Glacier within the designated area

Up close and personal with the glacier's ancient ice

Glacier Selfie!

Athabasca Glacier panoramic shot

I filled my water bottle with glacier melt-water

High up on the glacier with the Icefield Centre way in the background

To access the glacier reserve your seat on one of Brewster's massive Ice Explorers. These highly-specialized vehicles are designed for all-terrain travel, making them the perfect option for transporting visitors onto the surface of the glacier. Each Ice Explorer costs $1.3-million-dollars and there are only 23 in operation around the globe; 22 of which are used at the Columbia Icefield (the 23rd is at a research station in Antarctica). With a top speed of 18 kilometres-per-hour your pace will be glacial at best, but that gives you plenty of time to absorb the rugged mountain landscape that surrounds you. Upon your arrival you'll be given approximately 30 minutes to explore the glacier within the designated area. Please don't venture beyond the barriers as hidden dangers, such as crevasses, are present and falling into one could prove deadly. The surface of the glacier can be upwards of 15 degrees-Celcius cooler than the Icefield Discovery Centre so be prepared for chilly temperatures and inclement weather even during the warmest months. Don't forget an empty water bottle so you can fill it with glacial melt-water; it doesn't get much fresher than that! Bringing the entire experience together were the guides. They proved to be a wealth of information and were eager to share facts and stats about glaciers and the powerful impact they have on the surrounding environment.

The Glacier Skywalk 

The Discovery Trail runs along the top of the cliff with the Sunwapta Valley below

After departing the glacier you will leave terra firma and walk where eagles soar along the Glacier Skywalk. Brewster's newest attraction (it was built in spring 2014) is a glass-bottomed observation deck overlooking the magnificent Sunwapta Valley. The Skywalk is perched on the edge of a 280-metre cliff so your first steps into the abyss may be timid, but that feeling will soon pass as the breathtaking scenery unfolds before you. If the Skywalk is the grand finale, the lead-up is just as impressive. A one-kilometre self-guided interpretive walk along the Discovery Trail where you will observe fossils, wildlife, waterfalls, and more sets the tone for the entire experience. Here you are not limited by the hands of the clock, so take your time and immerse yourself in the beauty of the natural world that is all around you.

A panoramic shot of the Glacier Skywalk

Due to climate change the Athabasca Glacier is receding at an alarming pace, having lost half its volume over the past 125 years. Don't wait too long to visit as I fear its days as a tourist attraction are numbered. By venturing onto the Glacier Skywalk you'll have joined just a handful of people on the planet to have experienced this attraction. Since it was built only three years ago the number of people to peer through the glass floor is still quite minimal. If you're looking for a new adventure or just want to deepen your connection with the Rocky Mountains look no further than the Columbia Icefield and its captivating attractions. Keep in mind you can pair the Glacier Adventure with the Glacier Skywalk for a day filled with unforgettable experiences and memories to last a lifetime.

Wrapping-up a fantastic day in Jasper National Park

To learn more about the Glacier Adventure or any of the other Rockies Attractions please visit the Brewster Travel Canada website or you can purchase the Ultimate Explorer Pass that provides admission to four of Brewster's top attractions. You can also connect with Brewster on social media (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube, Pinterest, and Vimeo) and don't forget to share all your Glacier Adventure photos using the hashtag #GlacierAdventure and/or #GlacierSkywalk.

Jasper National Park

Trip Date: August 2016

For our fifth wedding anniversary Christine and I headed north to Jasper National Park. We reserved a campsite in Whistlers Campground and planned on doing some hiking, stand-up paddleboarding, and relaxing. The last time I was in Jasper was for a friend's bachelor party (read my previous post titled Ben's Stag in Jasper for a recap), but Christine hadn't been to the park outside of snowboarding season (which you can read about on this post titled Marmot Basin), so it was a great opportunity for both of us to see something new.

A male Rocky Mountain Sheep along the Icefields Parkway

We hit the road after work on Friday and headed for the spectacular Icefields Parkway. From Calgary, the drive to Jasper is approximately 415km and takes anywhere between 4.5 and 5 hours, depending on traffic. After a major delay due to a tragic accident we rolled into the campground after the sun had set and had to setup camp by the light of our headlamps. Sleep came quickly for both of us. We slept in the next morning and after breakfast we loaded the paddleboards and headed for Maligne Lake.

Our campsite in Whistlers Campground

Upon our arrival one of the first things the Parks Canada staff asked was if we'd ever camped in bear country before. After I replied that we had she then informed us that they've had bears in the campground on an almost daily basis this summer, largely due to the rich berry crop that arrived earlier than usual. This bear trap was the first thing we saw after leaving the check-in booth!

Maligne Lake is the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies and is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. The lake is 22km long and is home to one of the most photographed sites in the mountain parks; Spirit Island. The lake was originally known as "Chaba Imne" or Beaver Lake by local First Nation groups in the Jasper area, but was changed to Maligne by Mary Schaeffer. She was credited as the first European to "discover" the lake after she arrived on the shoreline in 1907 after following a map given to her by Samson Beaver, a Stoney tribesman.

Maligne Lake

My GoPro paddlecam was back in action on this trip!

Christine spotted this Mule Deer grazing on the shoreline. A pair of hikers with dogs scared her onto the beach where she caught the attention of Rome. I thought for sure we'd be going for a swim, but somehow managed to stay dry despite Rome's best efforts!

Rome still fully focused on the deer!

Neither of us had been to the lake before so we were looking forward to seeing how it compared with other mountain lakes we'd previously paddled (see Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and Emerald Lake as examples). I was happy to report that the water was warmer than those previous three, but the lake was also much larger. Spirit Island is roughly 14km from the launch point making it beyond our reach for the day. Despite its size and a slight headwind to start we still enjoyed a leisurely paddle along the eastern shoreline before making our way back via the opposite side.

It's not hard to see why the lake is so popular!

Christine and Rome

We stopped for a break and a snack on this rocky beach. That's Mount Charlton (left) and Mount Unwin (right) in the background. Both are part of the Queen Elizabeth Range.

Crossing the lake

These are called the Frog Rocks, but I'm not really sure why

Paddling with the sun on our backs!

Not wanting to go back to the campsite just yet we decided to launch our boards on Pyramid Lake, a kidney-shaped lake that lays at the foot of Pyramid Mountain. Although I would never describe the water as warm, it was certainly warmer than Maligne Lake and I even went for a brief swim to cool off. We paddled around Pyramid Island, a beautiful destination for sightseers, and even explored some of the opposite shoreline. Pyramid Lake is a very popular place and has numerous access points along the shoreline to launch your watercraft.

Medicine Lake is a picturesque spot along the Maligne Lake Road

Pyramid Mountain standing tall above Pyramid Lake as we paddle around Pyramid Island!

I found this action figure on the bottom of the lake and Rome didn't really like it for some reason!

Paddling on the lake with Pyramid Island in the background (right)

This guy made the trek across the lake with us!

Pyramid Lake

Heading back to the truck

That evening we saw two bears from the safety of our truck, bringing the total on our trip thus far to four. We saw a Black Bear along the Icefields Parkway and another along the Pyramid Lake Road, but weren't able to get photographs of either bear. The two we saw in the evening were both near the campground, but luckily not directly in it. I find it really exciting to see bears in the wild as long as you remember to always keep a safe distance and never put yourself, or the bear, in harm's way.

This Grizzly Bear was gorging himself on berries

He knew we were watching, but didn't seem to mind our presence

The final bear of the evening was this cinnamon-coloured Black Bear. He was moving pretty fast and we were losing daylight quickly, so the photo is a little blurry.

The next morning we woke to find a herd of Elk camped near our tent. There was one large bull Elk, probably the biggest Elk I've ever seen in person, and a number of females, calves, and young males. Rutting season was starting soon so this was likely his harem and he would attempt to mate with all of the breeding females. It was obvious this herd was used to humans because they were all completely at ease with our presence.

A herd was enjoying a leisurely morning nap when we spotted them

The big male

A young female

A young male that might challenge the old guy one day!

A calf of the year 

He's likely the biggest Elk I've seen in person!

This Raven was squawking nearby!

After breakfast we traded our paddles for hiking boots and set-off for the trailhead. Eventually we decided on the Mina Lake/Riley Lake Loop; a 9km roundtrip trail that gained roughly 175m in elevation. The trail is easily accessible from town and offers great views of the Jasper town site, as well as the aforementioned lakes. Despite its proximity to Jasper the trail felt like a ghost town. We only saw a handful of other hikers, which was a bit unnerving with all of the recent bear activity in the area. I'm happy to report we didn't run into any bears on this hike, but speaking with a local in town afterwards we were informed that it's quite rare to complete that loop without seeing any wildlife whatsoever!

Lower Mina Lake

Upper Mina Lake

We watched this Loon dive for snacks as we ate our lunch

Riley Lake with Pyramid Mountain in the background

Above the town of Jasper

After dinner and some delicious ice cream from town we took another drive up to Maligne lake to see it at sunset. The temperature had dropped a little and it had started to rain, but the lake did not disappoint once again. We were also treated to a few more wildlife sightings, bringing our bear total to six!

Maligne Lake at sunset 

The Black Bear cub popped out of the bushes along the Maligne Lake road before disappearing just as fast. Momma bear must have been close by!

These Elk were frolicking in Patricia Lake as we continued our scenic drive

The final bear on our trip was this healthy Black Bear inhaling berries like they were going out of style!

It rained overnight and the entire way back to Calgary, but that was fine as we had a fantastic weekend getaway. Banff is our go to national park simply because of its proximity to Calgary and we seem to explore Yoho quite often, but there's just something about Jasper that I can't get enough of. Christine and I both agreed that we need to try and get up to Jasper on a more regular basis. The park really is a hiker's playground and a paddler's paradise and I haven't even mentioned the mountain biking yet! Just sitting here thinking about all the possibilities has me excited for next summer already!